The Bordeaux Kitchen by Tania Teschke

Author:Tania Teschke
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Primal Blueprint Publishing
Published: 2018-06-24T04:00:00+00:00

Duck Rinds

Grattons de Canard

For an added bonus after making preserved duck legs and rendered duck fat, you will have duck rinds (grattons or grillons de canard). Scrape (gratter) the bottom of the pot where the duck legs simmered and add any meat or scraps (rillettes), if you obtained the duck legs from whole duck carcasses, or else from any fat you have rendered. You may have to do several batches of duck legs, as most people do when they are going through the trouble in the first place to preserve duck legs and duck parts, to get enough duck rinds (grattons). Add salt, pepper, allspice (quatre épices), crushed garlic, and thyme to a pan along with half a cup of white wine and allow to simmer for one and a half hours, stirring occasionally. Drain (but keep!) the excess fat. Dewey runs the duck rinds through a food processor briefly to chop them finer (but not to a purée) to make them more spreadable and better suited to use as a filling in omelets and stuffings. Spoon the duck rind mixture into sterilized jars. The grattons can be used as a spread or eaten by the spoonful. Another option is to drain off or scoop out with a ladle the excess fat when you heat the duck rinds and save this fat for other dishes, while continuing to cook the rinds over medium heat. They will continue to lose fat into the pan. You can sauté some sliced potatoes, a shallot, and several garlic cloves along with salt, thyme, and rosemary to make a duck rind and potato dish that is crunchy, fatty, and irresistible, as shown here in the pan. See also page 198 on using duck rinds in Duck Parmentier. If you have a lot of chicken leftovers, (which somehow no one usually does, unless they are in the business of roasting lots of chickens at once, like Le Poulailler d’Augustin in Bordeaux) they can be used to make chicken meat pâté (rillettes de poulet), shown here, neatly packaged in little picnic-sized glass jars.

PYRÉNÉES FARM SCRAMBLED EGGS

Oeufs Brouillés des Pyrénées

Season Year-round Preparation Time 5 minutes Cooking Time 7 minutes Serves 1

This recipe is for a hearty, farm-fresh breakfast of scrambled eggs, home-cured bacon cut into small pieces (lardons), and potatoes, inspired by ingredients frequently used in the French Southwest. Bayonne ham (Jambon de Bayonne) cut into pieces is a well-suited replacement for the bacon and needs a much shorter time if any at all to fry up before adding the eggs. The potatoes used are either already baked, boiled, or sautéed. This is a nice way to use those starchy leftovers. If you need more fat to cover the potatoes, use two or three tablespoons of fat instead of just one.

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